Subscribe for updates

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Now That Was Interesting! OR - how NOT to get to Esteli and back!

Learning Spanish
If you have been reading any of these, you will realize that this is part travelogue, and part idea exploration from this trip to Nicaragua.  I came here in early Oct., and I won't be home until Dec. 10.  Part of the purpose was to improve my Spanish - thank you very much Ms. Nubia Rodriguez of Esteli and the Escuela Horizantal run by Ms. Egdelena Lanuza of Esteli.  Excellent job, always warm and gracious - thank you very much.  If you are interested in an intensive course in Spanish for a very reasonable price - check them out:  http://www.escuelahorizonte.edu.ni/

My old friend Ned - in both senses of "old" - was there for two weeks, and I joined him for the last one. We stayed with Mama Licha as always.  It actually does feel like coming home!  Mama Licha, Nora, Manuel, Fernando, Norman - good greetings as always!  I know you and your children are all on Facebook - and you have become quite the expert at the Internet!

I can actually carry on a conversation in Spanish at this point - assuming it is about some area I know!!  I make some dumb mistakes - some of them all the time - and I ask my Spanish speaking friends to help me out on that - thank you, thank you very much.

Ned is on his way home to California as we chat here, and then back to Africa to a new settlement - new for him.  He has been in Africa for 47 years!  We both had an interesting time getting to Esteli - and an interesting time getting back to Managua.  So this entry is primarily a travelogue!  If that excites you - super.  If not, turn to the next one, which will be a bit more reflective on the travelogue - or we'll see what happens here!!  I AM making this up as I go, you know.

The Bus To Esteli
Ned was accompanied on the express bus from Managua to Esteli by one of the staff here.  And it was a good thing, too.  I was accompanied to the bus station, and I got on the express bus that goes through Esteli to some other town!  My ticket said so!  Of course, I didn't look at the ticket.  Three hours later, we are pulling into Esteli.  I am assuming that we will stop at the bus station or something, and most people will get off.  Well, I start looking for familiar things, and the bus stops a couple of times, and suddenly I realize we are back in the countryside!  I ask the guy near me if that was Esteli - he says, SI!  So I get up and accost the conductor.  They stop the bus about 3 miles out of town, and I get off!  NOW WHAT?!

I walk across the road, and there are a couple of young girls there - I ask them if they are waiting for a bus - they reply, SI!  I ask them how much - I think they said 5 or 7 Cordoba - something like that.  A cab pulls up - virtually EVERY cab that passes will honk their horn at a chele - a white face - hoping for a fare.  So I lean in his window, and in my BEST Spanish, ask if he knows Mama Licha.  I had not written down the directions - which are basically "two and a half blocks east of Briomol" - that last word is a tad hard to get out with R and B and all that in there.  There is no one else in the cab, by the way.  He doesn't know her, but I think I know the way - so I say - "how much to the center of Esteli."  He says "quinze" (15).  My brain does not do numbers very well - I think $15 dollars! I think this came from some remnant memory of a cab driver in Tanzania once asking for $60 for a fare that should have cost $3.  I say - "impossible" as a reaction - and he drives off.  And I am standing there thinking - you idiot - that's like 75 cents!  What were you thinking?

So I stand there in the sun a bit longer, and another taxi - this one with the driver and 3 other people in it - stops.  I ask how much, he says "quinze".  I say - super, and get in with my two bags, apologizing to the two women in the back seat.  I ask about Mama Licha - he does not know her.  I manage a few words about "casa maderna", which he does know - which is in fact a totally different place!  And off we go. As he turns onto the street for his first fare - I recognize Mama Licha's house - and say STOP - in English, no less!  So, I made it.  Warm embraces, food on the stove, and they had just been calling Elena to make sure I was not lost on the way!!

The Taxi to Managua or thereabouts
Fast forward a week - lots of things in that week, by the way - and Ned and I are debating how to get back to Managua.  We can take the bus - I think the fare is 70 - or like $3.50.  I mention to Ned that Bob Walz and I had once taken a cab from AKF to Esteli - for $100!  - he says - let's go for it, I'll pay half.  He found the 3 hour bus ride in an old school bus with his bag on his lap pretty confining - and damned near disabling.  Elena had also alerted us to make sure we get off the bus at the airport, and not at the bus station - too many unsavory characters there that might try to take advantage of a couple of cheles.  So I go talk to Egdelena at the school - her son runs a taxi service.  She calls him on the phone - he agrees to $85 - and I am thinking - heck of a deal!  She calls again on Saturday morning, just before we leave, announcing that he now realizes that he has to go a lot further to get to AKF - and he probably also remembers that we paid $100 last time - so he raises the fare to $100.  FINE!  My other option was to go out in the street and negotiate with someone else at this point - not a likely outcome.  Pretty clever, I am thinking.

Well, Ned and I and our bags get into the taxi - with a couple of bananas, cakes, and good-by presents from Mama Licha and Nora - and a bunch of hugs and kisses. I like this part of life here for sure!!  It's a little Chevy, 2007 - pretty nice.  Sounds good, runs good.  I couldn't get the seat belt on because the buckle part appears to be underneath the rear seat.  The owner assures me that we don't need them in Nicaragua.  We always drive safely and slowly.  I assume him that I am more worried about the other drivers than his driver - we does seem to be wearing his seat belt.  Then we go gliding down the mountain from Esteli, exceeding the speed limit, generally in neutral, cruising along.

The Party Campaign Caravan
We pass through some towns where everyone is waiting for THE caravan!  Elections here are preceded by long caravans of supporters who come into Managua from everywhere - all the way from the border - to cheer for their candidate.  The election is next Sunday- I'll do some more on that later - and you think WE have political problems!!  Mamma Mia!  (I also teach a bit of Italian to everyone as I go - I seem to think in it here!  Va Bene!)

A Minor Problem - 10 minutes max
Well, we are 2 and one half hours into this or so, when we quietly coast to the side of the road.  The driver and owner are checking the gas - did I mention that taxis frequently have 2 people running them? They don't seem to trust each other or the passengers!  We have plenty of gas, it seems.  The hood comes up - he assures us, it will just take a minute.  They fiddle with this and that, look at the battery connections and the fuses, etc.  And I am thinking - it was JUST running fine - there is NO WAY the battery or the fuses could have caused this.  They try to start it again - it won't turn over.  The solenoid clicks, then nothing.  We decide to push it to start - nothing.  Backward, forward - zip. BUT now the starter does crank the engine!  There appears to be a bad spot on the starter cog!  So they crank away at it, flood it, and it starts with a roaring and belching of smoke - flooded of course - and then it dies with a wierd clicking noise!  Nothing after that.

A bit more poking around, and the owner flags down a little pickup - gets out a rope (he HAS done this before) and ties it to the back of the pickup and front of the car. A family of four walking to the next town comes by, and they also get in the pickup - and off we go.  The pickup driver is making a few Cordoba here.  A couple of miles to the next place, where I see a large gas station!  AMEN. Salvation.  It is pretty hot out there in the sun!  This is actually the turn to go to Teustepe - which I recognize.

Well, we do not go the gas station, but to a little abandoned house on the side of the road, and into the back yard, where there is actually a fairly well equipped tool box!  There is also a small squadron of people who descend on this vehicle to determine what exactly is wrong!  The oldest guy - about 50 - seems to own the tools, and seems to have some idea of what to do - but the repairs are definitely a committee affair.  I had called Elena from the stop on the road, but the owner did NOT want to disturb her, and wanted to assure her it would be fixed in a minute, etc., etc.  Ned tells me that he has lots of experience being stranded in the bush when his car broke down in Africa.  And WHY don't we train all missionaries on basic auto mechanics?  Or all taxi owners in Nicaragua?!

After 20 minutes or so of repair discussions, and miles of caravan going by us on the road to Managua - I call Elena and tell her that we will likely be here quite a while. So she heads out to pick us up!  Meanwhile the repair committee gets a new fuel filter - a somewhat rational approach - except that the car was totally flooded the last time it ran - but, then there are problems connecting it, etc., etc.  We left the owner there quite disappointed with our lack of patience and understanding.  I truly hope he got home that night.

We finally head into town, but now we are literally in the middle of several thousand trucks, cars, buses, and every other conceivable vehicle flying flags of the 13th party. And they happen to run into or across the path of a similar caravan from the 1st party!  That little traffic jam - sometimes called "gridlock" - lasts about two hours!!  The numbers of the parties come from their positions on the ballot  The FLSN, or Sandinistas secured #2, because you make the sign 2 with a V for victory  They explained to me how the other party got fixed in position #13 -but it's a long story!!  But you CAN make a sign for 13 with one hand!  In Italy, it could be mistaken for a slightly different gesture!

Mamma Mia!  But we survived.  More later on the conversation between the African missionary and the Nicaraguan activist, or community educator, or revolutionary, or  . . . It generated a lot of ideas.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Rotary, Rotary, wherefore art thou, Rotary

Sorry I have not been keeping all of you up to date on the goings on here in Nicaragua.  The Rotary delegation has had me jumping around for the last week - but joyfully so.  I met a small band of wonderful people and some of their children and grandchildren, and we traipsed about Nicaragua.

We did some of the same things I have done before - visited the silhouette of Sandino on the hill overlooking Managua, visited the old cathedral, heard the story of the earthquake aid that Somoza stole which tripped the balance on what people would put up with, listened to Ayn Setwrite's history lesson, and description of the current crop of election craziness, and drove about in the rain!

We had planned a trip up a mountain, but the constant rain had closed many places, and damaged roads all over.  The rain let up a bit here in the center of the nation over the weekend.  On the way back from the beach, we passed many clotheslines strung out for the sun!  But now a tropical storm is forming just above Nicaragua - but it looks like it may move to the north - leaving just some residual rain down here.  The lake here in Managua is a few centimeters below its historic high.

I have now been to 4 "real" Rotary meetings, 2 of a new club being born, and one fund raising dance and dinner here!  I have to confess that I like the Nicaraguan version of Rotary meetings a bit better.  They have more fun and music.  Although the music here last night was just a LITTLE LOUD!  We were in a pretty small place, with an amplified marimba, keyboard, drums - and something that the drummer kept wacking that sounded just like a cowbell!!  If you haven't seen the Christopher Walken piece on Saturday Night Live - you can find it here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRzds1HHkas&feature=related

But we all danced, and we had nacatamales, and especially the young people had a great time.  I took a few videos, etc.

Our reflection period was stellar - what a fine bunch of human beings these folks are.  I am typing up the notes from it.  I don't think I can share those with the world - so I'll just give you a bit of my own - I think that is legitimate.  I had two insights - they are both recurring ones.

When I had just finished graduate school, and I was wandering the streets looking for full time work.  I thought that with 12 years of college under my belt, SOMEONE would want to hire me.  To hold my finances together, I got a job one month as a Good Humor man.  It was without a doubt, the toughest job I ever had.  It was 10 hours a day.  I was an independent contractor.  I bought the ice cream in the morning, rented the company's truck, and rented their uniform, and headed out on my assigned route to sell ice cream.  Needless to say, you have to sell quite a bit to pay for the gas, truck, uniform and investment in the ice cream, before you start to show a profit!   I would come back every night beat to death, pulling the bell, starting and stopping the truck, jumping out and serving 500 or more pieces of ice cream to kids.  I was tired and filthy by the time I got home.

Here on the streets of Managua, there are hundreds of guys pushing these little carts of Eskimo ice cream.  I am sure they are not the owners, and I am sure they are all just trying to get by.  The other day, I was just struck by one young man - tan, intent, creased lines on his forehead, working hard, pushing his cart on the side of the road, looking for a sale.  When I did it, I knew I had something better waiting for me - but this guy, and the other hundreds like him, may be doing this forever.  Just getting by.  Needless to say, I buy some whenever I can.

The other insight I have every time I come here goes like this.  I see the run down infrastructure, bad roads, poorly maintained fields, tin and plastic housing, litter and trash everywhere.  I learn about the corruption, the broken political system, the courts and police that do not work, the difficulty in getting a loan to do anything, etc., etc.  And I think, man, this is a disaster.  Who can anything here?  I would be better off just going home and forgetting about it.  I asked Luis once how he handled that after all these years.  He said, he goes and talks with the people.  They have hope.  They are raising their kids, doing their jobs, trying to make a better world for their families, trying to fix the problems, grow the crops, make a buck - anything to get ahead.  And when you meet the people, they are so welcoming, they are working so hard, they are so filled with hope.  As Luis says, if THEY have hope, given where they are, then I HAVE to have hope.  So I do - and I hope you do too.

Don't give up on Nicaragua- or any of these lovely places with economic distress.  When they get it figured out and working right, the hope is that they will teach us something about how to do it!  It's not like we have it perfected or anything.

Remember, we're all in the together - and I'm pulling for you.  (Red Green)

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Rain and More Rain - and Rotary

I am sorry that I have not been updating this - we have been busy.  And you are probably saying - thank heavens he is not writing a long epistle again.

Long and short of it - it continues to rain, and the forecast as far out as it exists is for more rain.  Not good.  The main lake here continues to rise past historic levels.  The rivers are all swollen.  Many towns are cut off because of flooding or bridges that were washed out.  At least one part of the Pan-American highway has been destroyed.  I do not know if I am going to get out of Managua next week even, to go to Esteli to join Ned.  We'll see.

The Rotary delegation has been doing things, and I am tagging along.  Because of the rain, the places we were going to visit in the mountains have been closed, so we are staying in Managua.  Yesterday we went to see some artisan products - very nice stuff - and hear about how this outfit is organized, how they train and provide incentives - etc.  I'll do more on that later.  But when we tried to drive to visit one of the women's pottry workshops - the road was completed blocked by some form of student protest at the University.  Several hours later, we finally turned around and headed back.

But, the good side of that, being here gave us an opportunity to visit the Masaya Rotary Club last night.  They had a wonderful presentation on the cultural heritage of the town, and some dancing - by a couple of young people, and by two of our hosts!  There is a video - you will get to see it eventually.

And today, after a visit to a honey farm - in the rain - we are going to attend the second meeting of an incipient Rotary club.  Should be another amazing event.

I have lots of thoughts about all of this - but no time now.  We are heading out in a few minutes.  But french toast for breakfast - with honey.  Works for me!!

To my lovely wife - I am fine - no problems.  To Rotary - team is good - lots of good things even in the midst of this downpour.

Saturday, October 15, 2011

And Now For Something Completely Different

You do remember Monty Python, don't you.  This note will be a tad different.  It's the weekend, and I'm sitting here catching up on my reading - it is still raining, by the way.  Some time ago I subscribed to a blog about society and economics.  And the post today is stellar - just stellar.  So I am anxious to share it with the 4 people who seem to be reading this!!

If you are unhappy with the current economic system, and with the left and right handed criticism of it - read this.  Outside of a little bit of polemic against the selfishness and greed of human kind, it is really good.  It is full of  an understanding of the current problems of our economic system, and a raft of really brilliant ideas.  I like almost everything in here - and that is hard for me to find these days.  It has none of the simplistic criticisms of either the right or the left.

For example, I am working on a piece to explain the futility of "make work" jobs as a means of contributing to the economy, or sharing the wealth.  He sees the same problem I do, and he has a VERY creative solution.  I am certain that all of these ideas are being discussed elsewhere, but this is one of the nicest, shortest collections I have found.  Read it, please.  It isn't that long.  It IS about economics, but nothing esoteric.  And then tell me what you think - or better, tell the author.

And it does relate to Nicaragua.  One of the criticisms I have gotten to my "culture" approach is that I am just trying to make people wealthy - well, yes!  Because of the human benefits that flow from that. This author has a full understanding of those benefits.  See if you do not agree.  Yes, this is not about the developing world - there are other problems there - but it would be a running start to fix the real problems in the so-called "developed" world.

http://www.oftwominds.com/blogoct11/making-a-living-Zeus-pt1.html

Rain and More Rain - and FOOD!

FOOD
It is raining, of course, although I see a bit of sun.  My laundry will never dry.  We went out to the farm yesterday.  The occasion was the Celebration of World Food Day on Oct. 16.  We are going to be busy that day, so we did it yesterday.  Each team was to prepare something to share - a pot luck!  That is a novel idea in this world.  How much does one bring?  There were 20 people - just imagine what would happen if each brought enough for 20!

I teamed up with our "fearless leader" to produce one of my favorite pastas - tuna rustica.  I'll put the recipe at the end if you are dying to know.  We actually did make enough for 20!  There was also a wide variety of other interesting things.  Plantains, of course, and a squash with mozzarella on it - enough for 20.  I also happened to have 10 Pearson's salted nut rolls, which I cut in half!

As we were getting our food, and I'm thinking about food - why not - it occurred to me as I was standing there that I was the tallest person in the room - except for one young man.  And I am not that tall to start with - and I have been shrinking of late.  Today, in the international news, I see that the World Food Program is dedicating a large contribution to the children of Nicaragua.  On one of my prior visits, we went to a small one room school house with the teacher.  Another marvelous experience.  The teacher was our friend, Sebastian, of course.  We learned that the government provides a small subsidy to provide a basic meal for the children at noon each day.  The parents take turns preparing it, and the children eat it at noon.  You want to look up the studies on the correlation between development and childhood nutrition.  The same phenomenon happens to new immigrants in the states.  The children born there tend to be taller - and healthier.  There are genetic factors of course - my lovely wife is only 5'2", and I KNOW her parents fed her well - she was the princess!!  But the point is, people do NOT reach their full potential if they do not have sufficient nutrition in early childhood.  Talk about a good investment.

Dramatics
We also did some preparation for the delegation, which is arriving TODAY!!  The two groups, farm and team, are going to do some "social dramas" - nearest translation I can come up with.  It is a bit of role playing, and puppets, with audience interaction - explaining how the farm school works, and how the team interacts with villages when they go to visit. It was excellent fun, and the next version will be even better.

One of the minor problems was whether to do it in Spanish or English.  Since most of the drama cast speak only Spanish, that part is set.  It was the puppets that raised the question.  I think, as much as I understood the conversation, that they decided to engage the target audience - the delegation - and do it in English, with a Spanish translation for the team.  Turning the tables a bit, as well.

Learning Spanish
This Spanish stuff is a continual bit of work.  At the stage I am at, I really have to pay attention and my brain is going a mile a minute.  I KNOW the words, I just can't hear them go by!  If I work at it, I can guess the sense and that helps me find the words.  I've been listening to the local news in the morning on my iPod.  They speak more clearly than most, so it helps.  I also read the paper daily - and it is about rain- it continues - and politics - the election is early November - and crime and sports!  A limited but useful vocabulary in this context.

Noises in the Night
Our night watchman is just leaving and stopped to tell me what happened last night.  To my untrained ear, he hardly seems to speak Spanish!  There were three LOUD explosions just as I was getting ready for bed.  Scared the bleep out of me.  They were about 5 minutes apart.  He said it was the place across the street - and the police were called, and they were everywhere.  It didn't sound like gunshots to me - but what do I know.  He had reassured me last night that it was outside our property.

More later.  We will traveling about parts of next week - so I will be without Internet access.  I have to decide whether to keep up these ramblings off line and inundate you when we connect - or just let you rest a bit.  I think the latter!

Tuna Rustica
4 tomatoes - cubed
1/3 cup sliced green olives
1/3 cup sliced black olives
1/3 cup green onions chopped
1/3 cup  extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic
2 cans albacore tuna
1 sm can capers
1/4 cup chopped parsley or cilantro - I much prefer the cilantro
12 oz pasta - ziti, rigatoni,  penne
Salt & pepper to taste - important

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Starting a New Rotary Club

I have been to a couple of Rotary meetings.  This initiative in Nicaragua is funded by Rotary.  And a group of Rotarians arrive Saturday for an update and some education with their partners here in Nicaragua.  But last night was an exceptional experience.

One of Rotary's rules is that there has to be a local club on the ground to partner with the international effort.  It makes sense.  They are the eyes and ears to watch out for problems, and they guarantee some level of local initiative and involvement.  Rotarians the world over commit to a set of values, and a set of rules.  The values are good ones.  Their motto is "service above self".  How can you go wrong with that?  Their current major initiative world wide is the eradication of polio.  Their mission is to create a network of professionals who are engaged in service oriented projects, both at home and abroad.  Their areas of focus are:

  • Peace and conflict prevention/resolution
  • Disease prevention and treatment
  • Water and sanitation
  • Maternal and child health
  • Basic education and literacy
  • Economic and community development.

Their rules state that they must hold a weekly meeting, and the members must attend a certain percentage of the meetings to remain in good standing.  They must also contribute something to the general fund of Rotary, and to their local club.  This group of individuals becomes a small community of common interest, and they reach out to their neighbors, and to other clubs around the world.  It's Putnam's rule:  Don't Go Bowling Alone.  (Robert Putnam, Bowling Alone)  Communities that have a lot of networking fare much better than those with little.  They have better employment, better health, better crime rates - a whole gamut of things.  It's why small towns tend to work so well.  As Putnam found, even a bowling league builds up a supportive network.

Last night, I was invited to a unique event - the beginning of a new Rotary Club - if it all works out.  Think about this a minute. You live in a town of 100,000 people, and your services and sense of common interest need a lot of help.  How would you go about forming a group of people together to work on this?  How does one invite people to an initial organization of a Rotary Club?  The way this happened here - a "fearless leader" gathered five friends and explained the goal:  establish a Rotary Club that can help us build community and also attract resources from outside to help us.  Those 5 individuals each invited 5 more people.  So we had an initial meeting of 25 people.  The "fearless leader" started with a brief introduction of each person, where they live, and what they do.  It kind of lays the ground work for them to value each other.  Then she asked each of them to take a minute, and think about their dream for their community.  What would they like to see happen in the future.

We had a wide variety of people - young and old. The group included the head of the local fire department, a teacher, some social worker types, some young people with amazing ideas and energy, and a couple of high school students with their own dreams.  They were clearly focused on their community - how to draw it together, heal some of their divisions, solve some of their problems.  Some of them had a truly global perspective on the issue.  One was clearly interested in this "outside help" - which is perfectly fine in the Rotary world.  By the end of the round, I was pretty excited for this group.  What a fine group of engaged human beings.  They could do anything!

The leader then asked if anyone had any experience with Rotary, or knew anything about them.  One individual had some stories - which were not all positive!  Our leader accepted those, with the comment that each Club has a very different character.  She then introduced the basics about Rotary, their mission and world wide impact.  She also explained the basic rules - how one becomes a Rotary Club.  There are some numbers of members, and contributions, etc.  She also talked about her personal experience with Rotary Clubs in the US and in Nicaragua.

After some give and take on that - our leader asked if everyone would be willing to meet a week from this evening, and bring a few more people who might be interested.  Almost everyone volunteered to do this.  One individual had a problem with the day of the week.  Our leader explained that the actual day for meetings, etc., was something that the entire Club could establish on their own.  Some Rotaries meet for a meal, others not, etc.

We departed with a really UP feeling - this could work!  As I thought about how one would do this - it made perfect sense in retrospect.  But I would not have had a clue how to begin.  I'll tell you next week what happens with the Rotarians in attendance.  This might be a different kind of Rotary Club from the normal one in the states, but I am sure that around the world, there are many, many different kinds of Clubs.  We will see how this works out next week!

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Work Detail

The rain has stopped.  I had a cinnamon bagel for breakfast!  Such a treat!  Thank you Elena!!  I had lunch with Luis - it felt pretty good to be able to talk with him a bit.  I asked him how his health was - he said no problem, other than getting older.  I asked him for the remedy for that!!


No-See-Ums
The major hazards of this climate are sneaky ones.  You all know what no-see-ums are.  I had to look them up.  They are technically "biting midges", and there are more than 1,000 different species of the things.  There appear to be a few here!  When the air is still, they "pick" at my arms.  No visible bug, no visible bite - but a definite "pick" or "picada".  I have to find a spot where the air is moving or a fan is blowing.  These things are under 1 mm in size, and don't fly in the wind very well!



"Real" Work
I used to tell people that once I got promoted to management, I never had a chance to do any "real work". I've been traveling about and eating and sleeping and reading and talking with people - mostly in Spanish.  But now it looks like I may have to do some work!  We have a minor problem that needs some painting.  And I did  NOT bring my painting pants.  I should know better.  Well, Jude, those jeans weren't that expensive!!  And I'll be careful!

Employment and Wealth Creation - REAL Work
I had a chat last night with a few folk about unemployment and all that.  Their view was definitely that we should be "making work" so that people can participate in the economy.  Why use computers to replace all the people who could be doing these jobs?  I actually wrote a piece on this in 1970 or so, which is still stuck out there on the WWW someplace - about the quality of work life.  I was pretty naive back then - I know a little more now.

The thing is, we can't just make work to get ahead.  If we create a job where we don't need one, we ALL pay for that from OUR wealth, through higher prices  Of course, if we just pay someone unemployment, we ALL pay for that through taxes AND higher prices!  Unemployment is not free -- companies contribute to that fund as well as the government.  But the problem is that this is a job with NO GAIN - just expense.  We could do it more cheaply, and we are not.  Every time we do something better, faster, cheaper - we are creating wealth for everyone in the economy.  That is what development IS.  Highways work better than dirt roads, trucks better than donkey carts, trains better than walking, etc.

Creating a phony job would be the same as using public money to build a stadium so a professional sports team can remain here rather than go to Omaha and build their own stadium.  That does not create any wealth - it just takes money out.  Of course, it looks like wealth, because a bunch of people are employed to build the thing, and we use a lot of resources, etc.  But all of the above could have been used to do something that actually generates wealth - not bribe a sports team!!

The only way to advance our standard of living - and not just for one country, but that of the planet - is to create something of value, or continue to provide some thing or some service of value with less expense.  A better road does that - it reduces the cost to get something to market, to get people to the hospital, etc.  That's called productivity, wealth creation, etc.  Removing wealth, doing things less productively, does NOT create any wealth - it destroys it.

Yep - we have the problem of the dislocated worker - and I know we do not do enough for that.  Every worker is a resource of incredible value.  If that person does not have a concrete way to contribute, to create wealth, we all lose.  But it doesn't help to just have them do busy work.  Building infrastructure works, solving problems works -anything where something is actually improved.  Training that allows them to contribute in another way works.  But, my sincere hope is, that we eventually run out of work!  What do we do then?  There will always be interesting things to do - but we may not have to work so hard to do them!   We all used to work 80 to 100 hour weeks - the standard now is 40.  Some European countries have it at 35.  That affects our competitiveness in world markets, but we seem to be able to still compete in some arenas - like heavy machinery, software, health, etc.  Our higher standard of living is more of a competitive disadvantage than our hours.

Part of the goal here - at least in my understanding of it - is to raise the standard of living in Nicaragua.  Just imagine for a moment what that would mean to everyone else on the planet!  What would that world be like?  Well, let's assume that it happens for all of Central America - they do function as kind of a joint economy.  We now have a place on the planet in the tropics, with beautiful beaches, lakes, volcanoes, AND 7 million highly educated, highly productive, highly capable humans who are working hard to advance the knowledge and health of the planet!  They have schools that are open to outsiders, that provide an education in a different world view, a different approach to research, to investment, to health care.  They have art and music and poetry, and beautiful children.  They could invent "THE NEXT BIG THING", whatever that is.  It certainly improves the odds.  I don't see this economic development stuff as a competition.  If anyone advances, we all gain from that.

OK, I'll stop. I'm just thinking out loud - one of the benefits of some spare time on my hands - or one of the burdens you have to bear.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Rain and More Rain


RAIN
Tuesday morning here in Managua.  Temperature is in the mid 70's, primarily because it has been raining since 10 last night - a real torrential downpour.  The news on the local radio reports lots of flooding, and THE highway to the north is blocked by a large truck which turned over in the roadway - with some flammable cargo.  According to the radio, the storm covers virtually all of Nicaragua.  I can't find a weather radar, but it does not appear that it is going to stop anytime soon.

Most of the team here travel by public transit, and 2 have motorcycles.  All are delayed in a major way by the storm and flooding.  The power was also out last night in parts of the city.

Situation normal for here, I think, at this time of year.

The Farm
I had an opportunity to visit the Farm here yesterday.  For most of you, this will not be something you are familiar with.  The group I am staying with - and trying to be of some use - is called AKF.  They have a web site, if you want to look it up.  They currently describe themselves as a "farm school".
     http://escuelaakf.org/Programs.html

This farm, a couple of hundred acres, is "nearby", but the unpaved roads are nearly impassable, with large portions with major challenges for even these "off the road" vehicles.  They use the property to teach better methods of production, and more ecologically sound approaches to agriculture.  Most of the communities they deal with are agrarian, and they depend on their crops for their livelihood.  Increasing that production, in sustainable ways, increases their standard of living.  Simple enough.

The problem with the farm has been that it has been occupied by squatters for a long time - more than a year.  There are laws about this, to protect bona fide squatters, so there are some protections.  Land records here are very complicated.  At various periods, the government or some connected person has claimed any parcel with real value!  This group of squatters has apparently made a deal with a local magistrate - similar to our common pleas court - that they will share some of the proceeds of their occupation with him.  He has put off and delayed, and procrastinated with this thing forever.  The police will not evict them without a court order, and the order has been delayed interminably.  It would seem that he is looking for a payoff from one side or the other.  It would clearly be illegal to offer him a payment - and AKF is not about to do that in any event.  So it continues.

Lawyers
They did take a very creative step - they hired another lawyer.  Like anyone needs more than one!  They have a learned and capable gentleman who is guiding them through the normal processes.  They also hired a connected young lady, who knows members of the Supreme Court.  This seems to be a more fruitful approach, as those folks are amenable more to influence than payment.  It's all in who you know!  We are primarily social beings!

The Election
But there is an election coming up in November.  And the "ruling party", the Sandanistas, do NOT want anything that looks like an offense to the common man to appear in the newspaper just prior to the election.  So there is an official hiatus on all enforcement actions.  Besides, 90% of the police are tied up in the political circus that is going on, so they are not available anyway.  And if you think our elections methods are crazy, you should see these.  I think our practice of lawn signs is silly - who would vote for someone because they have more lawn signs?!  But here, the winning candidate may be the one with the most billboards, the most caravans through the city, the most sound trucks blasting their campaign songs, the most rallies with people bused in from elsewhere - etc.  The bishop's conference has published a voter guide - which is not half bad. They listed a bunch of characteristics - honesty, integrity,commitment to the nation, etc.  It reads pretty well. Of course, it also includes a ban on abortion and gay marriage - but that is at the end.  They could not publish one without that.  I am not sure, but I think NONE of the candidates meet their criteria, although all would agree with the last two requirements.  One of the leading party candidates is Aleman who was arrested for corruption after his last term as president.

This is a Developing Country
More reasons why this is a "developing country".  Amartya Sen has that part right - people will naturally generate wealth - it's called greed - but to make it work, we need some basic protections, or rights.  Ownership and a legal system that will protect it is one of them.  Ah, as always, es complicado!

OK - enough of that.  It is very different reading about this stuff than it is sitting in a farm building with a group of people trying to make something work in the middle of this.  The infrastructure to support wealth creation is one small part of the problem - but it is as essential as the culture or world view.  Power, roads, courts, police, education, elections, news reporting - that actually work - are essential to development.  Where does one begin?

Once when I was here, I was reading Howard Zinn - The People's History of the U.S.  It gave me a better perspective.  When the US was founded, the nation was in pretty bad shape as far as basic rights.  Even basic things like free speech were seriously curtailed by the government until well after the Second World War.  Sweat shops, political corruption, police brutality, discrimination and oppression are part of the US history.  But we survived, and prospered - more or less.  I still think that basic sense that "we are in charge of this" is the key.  If people feel that they have the power, they have the power.  And what is with that occupation of Wall Street, anyway?

Get back to work!  One of the first Spanish words I learned was, "jubilado" - it means "retired", but what a wonderful way to say it - joyfully.  You can also say "retirado", or "pensionado" - but I love being "jubilado".

Monday, October 10, 2011

Morning in Managua AGAIN

We spent a very restful weekend in Matagalpa.  A few of you may remember that town, as our delegation of 2004 - Jude and mine's first trip - spent a few days up there.  It's in the mountains, a very fertile valley and surrounding hills.  Beautiful spot.  We stayed with Giovanni - an Italian immigrant, who runs the Italian restaurant where we ate way back then.  The restaurant is closed for renovation and expansion!  But we visited a couple of other interesting locales, and had naco-tamales for breakfast / brunch one day - made by Elena and Julieta. It's basically corn meal, rice, pork and vegetables, cooked in a banana leaf.  You don't eat the leaf, they tell me!!

We also experienced a tropical downpour!  We were at a restaurant a little further up the hills, when the thunder and lightening unleashed a major storm.  The road back to the house look somewhat like a river!  Going down toward us!  But we made it, thanks to some highly experienced driving by Julieta.

And NOT TO WORRY about the cold showers.  They had one of those shower heaters - except I didn't realize you really need to turn it on full.  I was trying to save water and the thing kept cycling off and on.  I'm sure I woke up the whole house.  I mention this because the first time we were in Matagalpa, you could hear screams from the shower room the first morning!  You could chill beer in that water!

I've never done pictures in this thing - but here's a first one.  This is my breakfast spot - warm and beautiful:

Elena has put me to work, rewriting some English text.  It feels like correcting homework!  But I do feel somewhat useful!  It is the ultimate goal of this whole enterprise and AKF.  I understand the goal - very clear - but the means to get there is still a major undertaking.

Your thoughts on that would always be appreciated.  An old friend told me of a similar venture he had undertaken in Africa some 30 year

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Early Morning in Managua

Birds and Flowers
It is just lovely to wake up to the sun and sound of birds.  And the center here is just beautiful - flowers, bushes, trees - green!  Just a beautiful morning - and NOT raining.  They tell me it is THAT time of year.

It is just lovely here.  The only downer is the cold shower - but it doesn't take long.  I'll survive.

Poverty Again - in the US
I was thinking about this poverty thing the other day, and culture change - and it occurred to me that the US needs a bit of a culture shift to get through what we are about.  I"ll just mention here, and try to explore it a bit more later.  I have read a tiny bit about this, but it struck me just right.

Our society generates wealth as a group.  Red Green has it right - we are all in this together.  We put together an infrastructure - laws and courts and police and roads and electricity, education - etc.  We all build it up, we contribute to it - and IT generates wealth.  Of course, we have something to do with it.  Steve Jobs arguably generated more wealth in our society than anyone in recent times - but he didn't do it alone. And the wealth he created didn't come from mining, or crops, or even manufacturing.  Those Apple gadgets are all manufactured in China - and China gets less than $10 out of the labor that goes into them.  But they do generate wealth.  People can communicate, can share, can dream, create, etc., on a scale we could barely imagine before.  Actual farmers make up 0.7% of the population, and they feed us - together with a huge transportation and retail infrastructure, supported by banks, credit, insurance, etc.  10% of us still manufacture things - and we do it extraordinarily well.  We still generate a huge share of the manufactured goods in the world - especially the bigger, more complex things. We still manufacture more than China!!  See here:  http://moneywatch.bnet.com/economic-news/blog/macro-view/manufacturing-surprise-the-us-still-leads-in-making-things/2134/  But we are clearly moving toward a service society - education, finance, retail, health, etc.

Up to this point, the philosophical way we share that wealth around is either by ownership of capital - the funds and goods that are invested to create wealth - or by means of our labor.  The vast majority of us share in this wealth by working.  We sell our labor for our share in the wealth we all generate.  We may never actually create a "good", but we do the service, we maintain the infrastructure, etc.  So we participate in the wealth of the society.  And we have all types of skills and people with different levels of ambition, energy, etc.  We have this basic cultural view - you WORK for what you get from the society.  We make some exceptions for those who are somewhat less gifted.   We figure out a way so that they can get a minimal level of sustenance and some self respect - but even there, we like it better when they WORK for it.

Jobs Problem
I may be wrong on the timing, but it appears to me that the era when people participated by selling their labor may be ending.  We are ingenious folk - we are automating every thing we lay our hands on.  It won't be long before nano-fabrication can make anything from a design spec - no hands needed.  It won't be long before all of the transportation is hands off, all of the retail sales, etc.  At the moment, we depend on a "consumer" economy for 70% of this wealth sharing.  It's like a bootstrap operation.  We need to BUY things in order to generate enough jobs to SHARE things.  And we are really good at buying things - in good times.  But it all has to end at some point. We will work ourselves out of work some day!

What about a different approach to sharing wealth?  What if everyone had a basic right to OWN part of the means of sharing wealth?  We could call it something clever, like capitalism, or shared ownership, or something like that - you know, stocks and bonds.  The trick with that, I think, is that we need to redefine the idea of the Corporation.  And, there are people actually working on that.  Today, the way corporations are chartered and the law around them says that their goal is to return value to their shareholders, and not steal from them.  Our Supreme Court has also seen fit to grant them the right to participate in our elective process - which seems idiotic to me - but we could fix that.  We basically pay as a society to give people the right to education - at least through high school.  For myself, I would gladly make that investment into another level of education, as does most of the developed world.  I think the return to us all would be enormous.  Why not pay to give everyone a participation in the wealth by means of shares in the new idea of a corporation?

Shared Ownership
As people own Capital, and they generate some income from it, we could, as a society, reduce our investment in our labor - using our investment in capital.  Some of the European nations have mandated shorter work weeks already.  The problem is that we then become noncompetitive.  Our prices have to rise to cover the extra labor.  But, we once all worked 80 hour weeks.  We now manage on 40.  We could reduce that and still be a competitive player on the world stage - especially as China and Africa get to the level where they also mandate shorter work weeks, and shared wealth. 

The Scandinavians seem to have gotten to this level through higher levels of taxation - but my gut says that is NOT going to work in the independence minded culture of the US.  We need a basic infrastructure beyond the taxing authority to support this sharing of wealth.  Why not one that fits perfectly with our friend, Capitalism?  Everyone says that the Scandinavians are socialists - but they are really not.  They are supreme capitalists with high taxation levels.  We could set another path that better fits our culture.

And that makes me wonder if there are not "other paths" to wealth generation that better fit the culture of this little country where I am at the moment.  It is really difficult to change the culture - the world view.  What creative things would work here that may not work elsewhere?

Plan B Corporation
Another part of our "new" approach has to be a new idea of corporation.  There is a thing called a "Plan B Corporation".   http://www.bcorporation.net/about

The basic idea is that this is a corporation with social responsibilities!  This type of corporation has to do more than just make money for its shareholders.  The goal is to make the corporation a responsible member of our society - something more than a money grubbing Scrooge!!  The genius of this is also that in all likelihood, this type of corporation will actually make more money on the long haul than any other approach!  Short term results are not the goal - long term results, staying power, impact on society are all part of the goal.  Some Asian corporations already operate this way - and a few US ones!  The enabling corporate law protects them from short term perspectives, and enables a different level of participation by the shareholders.

Enough for now
I know this has run on way too long - and it is not a finished piece.  I probably shouldn't even push it out there - but it struck me just right.  How does it strike you?  Help me improve it - thanks.

The paper arrived - and my second cup of team.  The Cardinal and Archbishop are on the front page - wonder what that's about.  I'm going to read the paper and listen to the birds - and the dogs, and the motorcycles, and buses, and  . . . well there are a million people around me in this city!  Have a great weekend.

Arrived Safe and Sound

For the three of you actually following this - hi Jude - I arrived safe and sound in Managua this evening, Oct 7.  Elena picked me up, and I am at the center.  I had a fruit cocktail - fresh stuff!  Very nice.

We are going up to Matagalpa tomorrow, in the mountains.  I likely will not have Internet.  I'll take my iPod, but not the computer.

Chatted with Jude for a few minutes on Facetime - thank you Steve Jobs.

I read a book by Jane Vella on the way down here - an ex Maryknoll - educator.  Elena gave it to me.  She has done community development training all over the world.  The book is interesting for the pedagogic methods - it's all about dialog - but I kept wanting to know exactly what she was doing with the training, not the way she was doing it.  What exactly is training for community development?!  How does that work?

When I finished that, I started in again on Poor Economics, which David Newman had recommended.  I have it in my iPod.  I like it - it's full of interesting stories and facts about the poor.  It describes lots of attempts to do things with and for the poor - and the actual results.  The authors are trying to establish an economic theory that works for people in extreme poverty.  I like the stories a lot - but there is no underlying rational basis to it all.  They know about Sachs and Amartya Sen and others like that - but they haven't read Harrison's works, like Culture Matters.  I think that would give them a thread to make a bit more sense out of their data.

A lot of the things they are learning about how the poor make decisions, and how different incentives work or do not work, make a bit more sense when you understand that people have completely different world views.  It isn't just about the best economic decision - it's about things like who is in charge, and a sense of control, or fatalism, or things like that.

One of Harrison's contributors had pushed the idea that education is the way to move people's world view around to make them more open to economic development.  The problem with that is the educators.  Based on the research in Poor Economics, the teachers are just going to replicate the current world view of their students.  They may even make it worse, if they don't think the students have an ability to learn.

There is just a bit on micro=loans - which really do seem to be an excellent idea.  There is basically no availability of money to fund development in the circumstances of most of the poor.  My sense is that we could expand this with more funds and see even better results in our community.

The most recent chapter is about insurance.  Some entrepreneurs figure there is a huge untapped market for insurance among the poor.  Subsistence farming or other labor is an inherently risky business.  One would think that there would be a good market for some form of insurance.  But the A few have attempted to offer it have not worked out.  The authors have some ideas as to why that is, but I think a part of it is the time frame that the culture imposes.  Most developing nations do not have a very long future time frame.  Anticipating the need for insurance to cover future risks, and spending money now to obtain it is a pretty sophisticated set of information.  Lots of people in the first world have problems with why they might want to buy insurance.

OK - enough about me!  How are you folks doing? I'm going to bed here in warm and humid Managua.  82 out there - that's Fahrenheit!  Take care.  Remember, we're all in this together - and I'm pulling for you.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Carl is Off to Nicaragua - WHY?

Carl is off to Nicaragua again.  What is he doing this time?

Es complicado!  I've been there 7 times now for a variety of meetings and things.  But this one is a little different.  Let me give you a little bit of history first, then bring you up to date on what is going on for the next few months.

History

Our parish, Guardian Angels in Oakdale, MN, has had a relationship with a small community in Nicaragua for over 25 years.  They just sent a delegation here to visit us for a couple of weeks in September.  We had a true family getogether.  We took them to dinner, showed them around, sat and played games and songs, and shared our hopes and dreams for a few weeks.  This relationship started out as a church to church thing between our pastor and their pastor at the time.  It has since become something between our whole parish, and a small "community" within their parish.  This community is pretty well developed.  They have by laws, and a coordinator, and a governing board, and a novitiate, and a small loan program.  They celebrate together, they grieve together, and they dream together.

In the beginning, we sent things there - like money.  We paid for a roof on their baseball stadium.  We sent some money to purchase a herd of cows, which someone there managed and produced some milk for their kids.  We collected used typewriters, and someone there, I have no idea who, set up a small commercial school to teach people how to type, because there were jobs in that field. We now call these things "projects".  They worked, they were fun for us to do, and a few people there got some benefit.  BUT . . . no major change in the way of life.  We wanted to do more.

We formed a relationship with another group, called AKF.  This Nicaraguan group was our eyes and ears, and provided transportation and translation and insight into our small community.  Over the years, they have facilitated this group, and helped them grow and mature, and educated them, and raised their vision of what they could accomplish, etc. We moved from "projects" to "accompaniment" - "hermanamiento", or "solidaridad".  Depends on how you want to think about it.

A New Approach
Over the years, AKF and we have developed a new vision of this thing.  We have moved to "they are in charge", or something like that.  We are now trying to do "sustainable development" but a version that comes FROM the people. "Self initiated sustainable development" - something like that.  The other is a Jeffrey Sachs term, and I don't really like it. I'll come up with something better as we go along.  Sachs has this vision of ending world poverty.  He thinks that if you put a lot of resources into a village you can get them "over the hump", or out of the circle of poverty in which they are trapped.  If you can provide education, water, and some sustainable economic base - they should be able to lift themselves out of poverty.  If you look on the WWW, you will see a lot of references to this effort. His book on this is worth reading.

Well, I think Mr. Sachs is wrong. I know he has the UN behind him, and he is putting big bucks into a lot of small towns in Africa and elsewhere - but I think he is overlooking one small item.  The people who are in poverty, who are in developing nations, are in that situation because of how they think and operate. They, and their entire infrastructure - government, courts, law, police, banks, etc. are working with a different view of how wealth is created.  He thinks the poverty problem is caused by a happenstance of geography, and climate and other accidental features.  I think a large part of their situation comes from their world view.  His Millennium Villages are doing very little to change that world view.  There is some education, and there is some exposure to outside ideas - but world views change very slowly, and that is not at all his focus. And, virtually ALL of the resources and ideas and energy of his efforts comes from OUTSIDE.  The people already have a world view that someone else is in charge, that wealth is something you get from elsewhere, and this approach only confirms them in that view.  What we should do is change how they and we both think of what THEY are ABLE to do.  We need to work on changing both of our world views - together.

World View and Culture is Key
I won't take time here to try to persuade you of this - as I have ALREADY done that in this blog!  You can refresh your memory of that, by skipping back a bit to this entry:
   http://carlscheider.blogspot.com/2011/01/culture-and-developing-nations.html

Assuming you have digested that - or that you don't really care and just want to see what I am up to now - you will have to read along as this thing develops.  I have already run on so long that you are likely bored to tears as it is.  Briefly, I am heading down there to assist a Rotary effort at doing this - they are taking an entirely different approach, one where they are enabling the local folk to change their own world.  Not a project, not an accompaniment, and certainly NOT a mission.  (More religion they do not need, of that I am certain!  They could send missionaries to us, I think.)

AND, I honestly have no idea how I can hep with this - we are making this up - but I will be with an experienced team of people, who will, no doubt, teach me a lot about how this works.

I plan to post pictures, and movies, and lots of ideas.  I also plan to learn a bit more Spanish, and to try to lose my Italian accent!  Que lastima!